Friday 2 May

According to the program this was a day off which was nice for everybody as we have had so many experiences. First of all a day off meant that no alarm clock was in use - in contrast to the air-condition which is certainly needed, but also gives us a good night’s sleep. Then - when you feel fit and ready to take the city in and step outside the hotel you are met by a wall of heat. You have to think twice with regard to the clothes you want to put on. The group had many different plans - one was to visit different museums. Our hotel is located so that we can walk to many of the museums. It was quite exciting to set out to explore the city just two or three instead of the big group. It was not very difficult to find our way around but of course we brought a map with us. At about 6 o’clock everybody returned to the hotel – to have a bath and a change of clothes. Dorthe and I had already been back one time earlier when we also wrote some cards for people at home before we went out again for further investigation of this fantastic city. We had a dinner invitation from Thuy’s sister and brother-in-law who have recently built a new house in Saigon.





We went there by taxi – quite a long way and difficult to find because the road where the house is, was just a very small lane. It was interesting to visit a new house and see the way they build in Vietnam. We were surprised to see how big it was. There were four floors and a roof terrace where you could see the skyline of the city in all directions!! Impressing. There was a bathroom on each floor and bedrooms for each of the children and the parents of course. On the floor where we came in there was a very nice kitchen with eating space and a very smart refrigerator like the Americans have them. There was also a room somewhere for worshipping the ancestors. It was all very, very nice. The two sisters had helped each other prepare the dinner so they had had a very busy day as they are both working full time. We had soft drinks and beer but the men were also offered something stronger which they told us was for sexual power. They had several bottles of it and we saw a bird in one of the bottles and geckos in others. It had to be matured for one year before it was ready. While we were at the table there was also some singing and then the taxies were there again to pick us up and take us back to the hotel.

Saturday 3 May

As early as seven o’clock in the morning we were on our way out of Hanoi towards new adventures. This time we are going south and for the first time we drove on a motorway. It meant more speed of course, but the mopeds (or motorcycles) are still there to overtake and if you cannot overtake them in the right way you can always do it on the inside! We did that once because a lorry stayed in the outer lane although several cars had signalled that they wanted to pass him. We are used to a lot of hooting from Hanoi because it is done whenever anybody overtakes you but also on a motorway you hear it the whole time as a warning signal. Our destination was a modest little village by a river where we got on board a ship that sailed us into an area with mountains of limestone as we also saw them in Mai Chau. It was a wonderful sail – just to sit and look at the beautiful mountains, but also to watch life on the river. We saw both men and women working on the banks of the river, we passed boats that looked as if it was people’s home. We met women rowing the boat with their feet – and it looked very easy! We also saw bathing water buffaloes and quite a few duck farms. Sometimes we passed a village situated as if the river was a road through it. In one place there was a bridge across that you had to push aside when you wanted to pass through on the river and people in the village could just pull it back with a rope again afterwards. Clever! When we got back it was time for lunch at a small café and afterwards nine bikes were ready for us, and we had about 20 km drive ahead of us. Kirsten J did not want to cycle so she was a passenger on a moped that would follow us if anything went wrong with the bikes .Unfortunately the only one that got any problems was the moped so Kirsten had to wait for a long time somewhere on the road where she had to look for shade as it was very hot, while we cycled on. We went to Hoa Lu where we met Kirsten again and a lot of other tourists who had come here to visit the first capital of Vietnam and see the royal palace. The original palace is long gone but they have reconstructed it with both gardens and buildings. After having had a good look at it and after having had a rest and something to drink we were ready for the next 10 km. It sounds like a lot when you think how hot it is in Vietnam but our speed is only moderate and especially these last km were very beautiful. Again we felt like driving directly into a postcard! The path we followed led us in between mountains and we also passed through villages and saw many rice fields. At one time we had to stop and wait while a big flock of ducks was driven past us. The children me meet cry their hello but everybody smile- even the old women with their black teeth which we have read about - smile at us with their black teeth. We were tired when we arrived in Tam Coc and cycled up in front of the nicest hotel of the town. From the balcony in front of our rooms there is an impressive view towards mountains and a river where we are going sailing tomorrow. There are many tourists here and so there are many traders. But if we do not want to buy we know what to do – look straight ahead and say ‘no’ and mean it. Delicious buffet at 7.30 pm and small talk in a friendly atmosphere on the top balcony afterwards.

Sunday 4 May

The quality of our sleep varies when you sleep in so many different places. If you can sleep with the air-condition on you get the best sleep, but sometimes it is too draughty so we put it on and off during the night in order not to catch a cold or get too hot. Dorthe and I had one of those nights but that makes it easier in the morning, because you long to get up and have a cool bath! After breakfast we walked to the river (just opposite our hotel) where a boatwoman would take us – 2 and 2 - up the river in small boat.



It was a very popular trip – also for the Vietnamese! We are the strangers here – which means they look at you – they wave, greet you, take pictures of you or let their baby touch you if you communicate with them. Only very few speak English but the do know ‘hello.’ We had been told beforehand that the boatwomen would want to sell us needlework and could be quite persistent, so if we did not want to buy we should avoid eye contact and not listen to their talk. It was not easy and not nice either, because she kept saying ‘Madame’ and Dorthe and I just looked straight ahead. The nature was beautiful and we rowed for about one hour each way and enjoyed looking at the limestone mountains in the background, on each side of the river rice fields and goats on the bank as well as higher up in the mountains. We also saw quite a few gravestones and have been told that during the wars nobody asked for permission but just buried their dead in private land where they wished to. Nowadays you can only be buried in cemeteries. We sailed through three big caves – especially one of them was very long and therefore quite dark. The sun was shining so it was quite hot, but a very fine sail and nobody bought more than they wanted. Afterwards we had lunch at the hotel before our trip continued. We headed north to another province where we were going to visit the parents of Huy – a young woman who Henning has also helped financially.


This province does not see many tourists because there are no spectacular mountains or valleys but just plain land for agriculture, and there was nothing much to look at in the towns we passed. It is obvious that it is so hot here that people stay indoors most of the time. When you pass through a village you can usually look straight into their houses. You may see two or three squatting in the doorway - talking - or lying flat on the tiled floor – asleep. In many of the houses they have a stall where they sell soft drinks or fruit but they may sell meat or other things of course. We were at the end of the trip in the late afternoon and went straight to Huy’s parents-in-law where the young couple lives with their little son. When we arrived there we felt that we were far away from everything. We had to walk about one km down a small lane. There were houses on both sides, but we just thought that is was a very small village. Later we were told that about 3000 people lived there and we could also see many lanes in all directions as we walked on. We were told that it was an agricultural village with vegetables and fruit as the main products.



We had something to drink and fruit and cakes which tasted nice and then we went on to Huy’s parents where we were going to have dinner. It was a big party there – many of their friends and relatives had come to meet us – some had even come from Hanoi. Tables were laid – in the garden – for about 25 people. We had a very nice dinner and soft drinks with it. They also offered you alcohol like snaps, but no beer. It had been a long day so at 8.30 we drove to our hotel which was almost new, but different to what we are used to, as this is not a tourist area. The standard was not the same, but the air-condition worked, the bathroom was ok and so were we. It was not possible to sit together anywhere so we went to bed early.

Monday 5 May

We are back in Hanoi again after our trip to Tam Coc and Phu Cu. We woke up this morning to a tropical rain. There were huge puddles everywhere and the temperature quite pleasant according to the Danes, and I think the Vietnamese think likewise! We had breakfast in a building close to where we slept. We could have soup or plain white bread – not toasted - and scrambled egg to go with it. Henning had arranged a visit to the school where Huy’s mother teaches. She came to the hotel and took us to the school where we were kindly received by the director and vice director. We were offered a cup of tea and the director told us that they were pleased with our visit but unfortunately we could not see the classes because they were doing their exams and could of course not be disturbed. Disappointing! Then we headed towards Hanoi – the first long stretch on very bad roads - asphalted, but with many holes and very bumpy. We were back at our hotel before 11 and had our rooms instantly. There was no program for the afternoon, so we relaxed and had time to do what we wanted. It is not so hot in Hanoi today so we walked a bit more about and some of us also went to look in some of the many silk shops before we went out to dine at 7.30 pm.

Tuesday 6 May
We woke up to nice weather – read: not too hot. You feel it as soon as you get out of your room and we were pleased about it as this morning’s program was a bicycle trip around the West Lake. If you had thought that it would be a peaceful ride along the banks of the lake where you would only meet pedestrians and cyclists you were disappointed. Once again we got out in the enormous traffic of mopeds. Of course there are many cars too, but not compared to a western town. But we have found our rhythm, found our place in the row, keep close at the large crossroads where we turn left, and where there is no traffic light .It is surprising how smoothly the traffic runs. You hardly ever have to wait for anybody. You only wait at traffic signals and when you are waiting there you can see how long you have to wait because they have a countdown in seconds you can follow. We were not close to the lake the whole time but many times we could get a look of the lake and sometimes we drove along it. We visited a famous pagoda situated beautifully by the lake. Later on our ride we made a stop at a little café to have a drink. It is Dorthe’s birthday today so we sang a birthday song for her. We passed through many different quarters on our round trip but it was not only wealthy people in big houses who lived close to the lake.


Video with old and new Hanoi

The city is a jumble of lanes with the characteristically narrow houses and in front of many of them there is a little shop or maybe a kitchen and in other quarters there are broad boulevards with four lanes with grandiose buildings. At the end of the trip we visited the Military History Museum where we concentrated on two famous battles -against the French at Dien Bien Phu (1954) and against the Americans in Saigon (1975). There were displays so it was easy to follow the progress of the battle.



When we got back from our trip we returned our bikes as we will not do more cycling in Hanoi! At seven pm we met again to go out and dine. It was a special dinner as Henning had invited several Vietnamese friends. The restaurant was by the Hoan Kiem Lake and very nice. Dorthe and I had a look at the menu the other day but decided against it because we thought it was too expensive. Many people were already dining when we came and a band was playing, but a table for twenty was already laid for us. The service was of a high standard and the food delicious. The band played a birthday song for Dorthe, they played and sang for us at the table and before we left we all joined in when they played ‘Should all acquaintance be forgot . A splendid evening.

Wednesday 7 May

If you looked at our program it would tell you that today was a day off, but it ended up quite differently. We had an invitation for lunch from one of Henning’s friends – Thang, whom we have met earlier. We had to leave the hotel by 10.15 which we found a bit early for a lunch arrangement, but that was because it was in the outskirts of Hanoi, we were told. We drove off in two taxies and with our clever and nice guide - Khoa – in front of us on his scooter to lead the way. First we went to Thang’s workshop - he is a constructor and has many employees. We were invited into his office where we were offered a cup of tea. And as it customary we drank it out of small cups and we also had some fruit. The men from our group had a look at Thang’s workshop before we went on to his private house at the end of a lane. We first saw a portal leading into a big shady garden which was landscaped very decoratively. There we sat down again - at small tables placed in the big garden - and had another cup of tea. There were quite a few family members present and we had time to talk to them and look around in the garden. In a corner of the garden Thang had several big containers in the ground in which he kept his own rice wine. There were two houses in the garden next to each other. One was where they lived and the other was a temple for the ancestors. The tables were laid in the temple which opened up to the beautiful garden. Three tables were laid and the food looked very tempting. We were offered beer and rice wine in ample quantities, and you c o u l d also a soft drink! Everybody liked the rice wine and enjoyed the food. One of the courses was chicken and in Vietnam the head of the chicken is looked upon as something special, but most Danes are not very keen on it. I think Thang got a little surprised when he offered it to us and Kirsten J said ‘yes please’. After the meal there was once again tea in the garden and then we thought it was time to return to our hotel. But no, now a round trip to some of the members of the family started. First we went to Thang’s sister and brother-in-law and saw their grocery shop where we were also invited to come in and have coffee or tea. After this visit the next stop was at a restaurant which belonged to Thang.


A very special restaurant with some very big wooden furniture placed in groups where you could sit and talk undisturbed. He also had three crocodiles and other peculiarities. Once again we thought that we were on our way home but again Thang came with us and this time he wanted to take us to his niece and her husband. They are newly married and have a big antiques shop which we then saw. It was unbelievable how many things they had in the shop. Years and prices filled the air – 800 years old – 100 years old – 800 dollars or maybe 50 dollars. Of course we wanted to know the prices and the age of many things! After this visit it was time to say goodbye and thank you very much to Thang and his family, but we will see them again as they are coming with us to Cat Ba. It has been very hot today so it was nice to get back to the hotel and have a bath and a rest! In the late afternoon some of us went to the dressmaker’s and after that it was time for our snake dinner! A dinner that has been planned from home and seven brave and curious Danes went off in taxies to enjoy this special evening. I did not go but I have been told what it was like. The restaurant was in a street that was rather dark and not so nice so when two young men tried to hold on to the taxies because they wanted them to go to another restaurant in the street, the brave Vikings did not like it. But they ended up in the right restaurant and the show could begin. After having had a cup of tea there was a little show with a cobra snake which ended when the snake was slaughtered. Blood and gall was put into rice wine which they were going to have later. The heart was cut out and is always offered to one of the guests. Kirsten J had said that she would like to have it and after having left it on a plate for some minutes where they could see how the heart was still beating she finally took it. She said that she could feel the beating of it afterwards! Then it was time to eat – (also for the rest of the group) and of course it was all snake of some kind – soup or grilled skin were a couple of possibilities. From what I understood it was the show that made the evening, not the taste of the snake meat.


For different reasons Rigmor, Finn and I had had not wanted to take part in this exotic dinner. Instead we went to a French restaurant where the service was of high standard and the dinner and wine delicious. We walked home along the lake and when we returned to the hotel ‘the snake group’ had just returned. It has been a warm day with many different impressions!